incoming message for: Holly

To my girlfriend. To my love. To Holly.

Happy birthday. I made you something. It might be a little bit shy.

A neon pink Eiffel Tower standing on a glowing grid under the stars, with little hearts floating around the top.

Pack something fabulous. We're going to Paris.

4 to 10 November. Six nights, just us.

Happy birthday, my love

You have had a big year, and you deserve a week where someone else does all the planning. So I did.

Every day has one lovely thing in it, and the rest is time for wandering, eating and doing nothing at all. Wear the dress. Order the dessert. I will carry the plates home.

All my love, Casius x

Our week

One main thing a day, picked for you. Everything else is optional. Booked is sorted, Planned is the idea, Optional is only if we fancy it.

Golden evening light on Paris rooftops, with the dome of the Panthéon under a dark sky.
Rooftops of the Latin Quarter. Photo: KimonBerlin, CC BY-SA 2.0

We're really doing this

Booked

Fly to Paris

Manchester at 18:40, landing at Charles de Gaulle late in the evening.

Around it

  • Planned Eat a proper dinner at Manchester before we fly. Late food in Paris is not a sure thing.
  • Planned Official taxi rank at the airport. It is a fixed fare to our side of the river. Ignore anyone offering a ride inside the terminal.
  • Booked Our hotel in Montparnasse. The address is in your messages.

Tonight

  • Planned Check in, one drink if the bar is still open, then sleep.

Good to know: the airport trains are off late tonight for works, which is why it's a taxi.

The Eiffel Tower in sunshine, seen across the Trocadéro gardens and fountains.
The Eiffel Tower from the Trocadéro. Photo: xiquinhosilva from Cacau, CC BY 2.0

Our Eiffel Tower moment

Planned

The Eiffel Tower, right to the top, with champagne at the summit

You have to see Paris from up there at least once, and it should come with a glass of something. We'll go up mid-afternoon so we see it turn from daylight to dusk.

Map

Around it

  • Optional A very slow breakfast.
  • Optional Photos across the river at Trocadéro.
  • Optional A one-hour river cruise from the foot of the tower as it gets dark. The boats are glass-covered and heated, and if we time it right we'll see the tower sparkle.

Tonight

  • Planned Cosy south-west French dinner near the hotel at La Cantine du Troquet. Map

Wear: a warm coat and flat shoes. It's windy at the top.

If it rains or the top is shut: the second floor still has the view, then the heated cruise.

Skip without guilt: the cruise.

The Napoléon III Grand Salon at the Louvre: a huge crystal chandelier, gilded ceilings and red velvet seats.
Napoléon III Apartments, the Louvre. Photo: Amaury Laporte, CC BY 2.0

Art, then our fanciest selves

Planned

The Louvre: the Mona Lisa, then the most opulent rooms in Paris

We're going in the daytime on purpose. The gilded Napoléon III Apartments close on the free Friday evening, and they are the bit you'll love most.

Map

Around it

  • Optional Lunch at Juveniles, a little seasonal bistro near the Palais-Royal.
  • Optional Galerie Vivienne, a covered arcade with mosaic floors.
  • Planned Back to the hotel to rest and get ready.

Tonight

  • Planned Dinner at Maxim's at 19:00. Red velvet, stained glass, mahogany and live music. Crêpes Suzette, obviously. Map

Wear: your most glamorous outfit. Their dress code is chic and elegant.

If it rains: everything today is indoors.

Skip without guilt: the arcade.

Place des Vosges in the Marais: red-brick arcades, a fountain and leafy trees.
Place des Vosges, the Marais. Photo: David McSpadden from Daly City, United States, CC BY 2.0

Something for our future breakfasts

Planned

Shopping in the Marais, starting at EMPREINTES

A beautiful shop of French handmade ceramics and homeware. We each choose a cup or a plate for the other, keep the maker's card, and use them at home.

Map

Around it

  • Optional Merci, a concept store laid out like a big house.
  • Optional Odetta for curated vintage and designer pieces. It opens at 14:30.
  • Optional Lemon tart at Bontemps.
  • Planned Taxi back to the hotel late afternoon to drop the precious cups and get changed.

Tonight

  • Planned Oysters and shellfish at L'Îlot, a tiny seafood room.
  • Planned Cocktails at Bonnie, sixteen floors up with Paris below us.

Wear: shopping shoes by day, something dressy for the bar.

If it rains: the shops are all indoors and we'll taxi between them.

Skip without guilt: Odetta.

The west front of Notre-Dame, with its great rose window between the twin towers.
Notre-Dame, September 2025. Photo: The wub, CC BY-SA 4.0

Slow Sunday in Paris

Planned

Notre-Dame

Free to go in. We'll grab a timed slot on the day if there is one, and go between the services.

Map

Around it

  • Optional Croissants at La Maison d'Isabelle. On Sundays it closes at 15:00.
  • Optional A wander across the two islands in the river.
  • Planned A long lunch at Lapérouse, candlelit little rooms on the Seine.
  • Planned Back to the hotel for a rest.

Tonight

  • Planned Your pick. Either the Crazy Horse cabaret, all light and silhouettes, at 20:00 (we'd need to be there by 19:15 and eat before), or swing jazz in a candlelit cellar at Caveau de la Huchette from 21:30. Tell me which and I'll sort it.

Wear: whatever makes you feel incredible.

If it rains: the cathedral and lunch are indoors.

Skip without guilt: the islands walk.

A quiet avenue in the Luxembourg Gardens under golden autumn trees, with a statue and the Panthéon beyond.
Jardin du Luxembourg in autumn. Photo: PRA, CC BY-SA 3.0

Absolutely no rushing

Planned

A couples spa afternoon

Side-by-side massages, a hammam and a private jacuzzi at Sensation Spa.

Map

Around it

  • Planned I'll do a bit of work in the morning. You get a lie-in.
  • Optional While I work: La Galerie Dior, gowns, sketches and theatrical rooms in Dior's old house. Galerie Dior
  • Optional The hotel has a gym, if you fancy it.
  • Planned Pack in the afternoon so tomorrow is easy.

Tonight

  • Planned Steak frites at Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Montparnasse. No booking, open on Mondays. This is where we swap our cups.
  • Planned Early night. Alarm at 05:00.

Wear: the comfiest thing you packed. Bring swimwear for the spa, just in case.

Île de la Cité and the Pont Neuf reflected in a still, pink-gold Seine just before sunrise.
Île de la Cité before sunrise. Photo: Daniel Vorndran / DXR, CC BY-SA 3.0

One last coffee

Booked

Fly home at 10:05

From Charles de Gaulle. Sleepy, happy and carrying ceramics very carefully.

Around it

  • Planned Taxi from the hotel at 05:45, booked the day before.
  • Planned Breakfast and that last coffee at the airport.

Where to eat and drink

Our list to choose from on the day. The ones marked reserve need a booking.

  • Maxim's

    Art Nouveau red velvet, stained glass and live music. The big night.

    ConcordeEvery nightReserve

    Website for Maxim's
  • Le Grand Véfour

    A gilded, mirrored eighteenth-century room inside the Palais-Royal. Quieter and very romantic.

    Palais-RoyalEvery nightReserve

    Website for Le Grand Véfour
  • Lapérouse

    Candlelit little velvet rooms on the river.

    Saint-GermainReserve

    Website for Lapérouse
  • Boubalé

    Murals, patterned fabrics and velvet. Colourful Mediterranean food.

    MaraisEvery dayReserve

    Website for Boubalé
  • La Cantine du Troquet

    Lively, proper south-west French cooking, five minutes from the hotel.

    PernetyTue to SatReserve

    Website for La Cantine du Troquet
  • Juveniles

    A small seasonal bistro near the Louvre.

    Palais-RoyalTue to SatReserve

    Website for Juveniles
  • Chez René

    Classic bistro: snails, frogs' legs, bourguignon and entrecôte.

    Near Notre-DameTue to SatReserve

    Website for Chez René
  • L'Îlot

    Oysters, crab and seafood platters in a tiny room.

    MaraisTue to Sat eveningsReserve

    Website for L'Îlot
  • Le Grand Colbert

    A tall mirrored brasserie. Order the sole and the profiteroles.

    Near the Palais-RoyalEvery day

    Website for Le Grand Colbert
  • Le Relais de l'Entrecôte

    Steak frites with the secret sauce, and nothing else to decide.

    MontparnasseEvery dayWalk in

    Website for Le Relais de l'Entrecôte
  • Bouillon Chartier

    Cheap, cheerful French classics, open until midnight.

    MontparnasseEvery dayWalk in

    Website for Bouillon Chartier
  • Stohrer

    A historic pâtisserie. Rum babas and éclairs.

    MontorgueilEvery dayWalk in

    Website for Stohrer
  • Bontemps

    Lemon tart and buttery sablés in a pretty Marais shop.

    MaraisWed to SunWalk in

    Website for Bontemps
  • La Maison d'Isabelle

    Award-winning croissants near Notre-Dame.

    Latin QuarterClosed MondaysWalk in

    Instagram for La Maison d'Isabelle
  • Bonnie

    Retro-glam cocktail bar on the sixteenth floor, with Paris below.

    By the river, near the MaraisFrom 18:00Reserve

    Website for Bonnie
  • Bar Joséphine

    Huge painted frescoes and live music Thursday to Saturday.

    Saint-GermainFrom 17:00

    Website for Bar Joséphine
  • Bar 228

    A cosy palace bar with live jazz, near the Louvre.

    Rue de RivoliWalk in only

    Website for Bar 228
  • Caveau de la Huchette

    A swing jazz cellar where people actually dance.

    Latin QuarterFrom 21:30Walk in

    Website for Caveau de la Huchette

Little things

Our souvenir

On Saturday we each choose a cup or a plate for the other. Something we'll actually use, so every coffee at home is a tiny bit of Paris.

Pack

A warm coat that works over dresses. An umbrella. Flat shoes for the days and the good heels for Maxim's and the cabaret. It's about 6 to 11 degrees in November.

Passports

For France they need to be less than ten years old on Wednesday and valid until at least 10 February. Border checks now take photos and fingerprints, so arrival can be slow. Keep a snack in your bag.

Tuesday is early

The taxi leaves at 05:45 for our 10:05 flight. Monday is an early night, I promise it's worth it.